NOTES:
Be aware of the extreme heat which can damage your bonsai ‑ do not let
your bonsai dry out, but be careful not to over‑water. Rotate your
bonsai periodically so that all parts of the plant are exposed to
sunlight. Keep all pines and junipers in full sun for healthy growth
and deep green color.
Keep an eye
out for insect infestations and take remedial action. Do not spray
insecticide or fungicide in the hot mid‑day sun. You could damage the
foliage of your trees. If you must spray do so in the early morning
or late evening.
This is a good month for air
layering or ground layering. Trees are in vigorous growth and soil and
air temperatures are very warm which should increase the success in both
types of layering. You can still take cuttings of this years' growth
that has hardened off with excellent chances of success. Just be
certain to keep your cutting box in the shade. Refer to the section on
bonsai plant material for proper timing and medium for rooting cuttings.
If you planted
seeds in the spring now would be an excellent time to transplant your
seedlings into individual pots as long as they have developed true
leaves.
Moisture loving
plants such as Bald Cypress, Willow, Wisteria and Alders can be placed
in trays or basins of water to keep their roots cool during the heat of
summer and provide humidity for their leaves. Remove from trays or
basins in mid‑September.
It is also a
good time to practice sanitation around your plants by removing all dead
flowers from azaleas, rhododendrons and other flowering plants. This
will help to prevent flower blight from over‑wintering in your garden.
It is advisable
to use a soil insecticide this month to reduce soil insect activity.
You can use either liquid Dursban or Diazinon at a rate of 1 to 2
teaspoons per gallon of water as a soil drench to control soil insects
in bonsai plantings. You should repeat this soil drench just prior to
over‑wintering your bonsai in enclosures such as cold‑frames,
greenhouses, un‑heated basements or garages.
TRANSPLANT/ROOT PRUNE:
Azaleas ‑ keep
in shade for two weeks after transplanting. Buttonwood, Pyracantha,
Tropicals. Elm, Hornbeam, Maples, and Zelkova can be transplanted and
root pruned immediately after leaf pruning provided trees are healthy
and had been fertilized two weeks prior to leaf pruning.
BRANCH PRUNE:
Birch, Cedar, Cryptomeria,
Pomegranate, Willow, Witch Hazel ‑ after leaves have hardened.
TRIM/PINCH NEW GROWTH:
Buttonwood, Bald Cypress, Cedar, Fig
(ficus), Fir, Hemlock, Juniper, Maple ‑ Trident, Pine ‑ black, Quince ‑
Japanese ‑ long shoots, Podacarpus, Tropicals, Wisteria ‑ late July ‑
trim with scissors after blossom withers but before new buds harden.
LEAF PRUNE:
Bamboo ‑ close
to the ground, Birch, Elm, Ginkgo, Holly ‑ deciduous, Hornbeam, Maples,
Privet, Quince, Willow, Zelkova. All trees should be in good health
and fertilized at least two weeks before leaf‑pruning.
FERTILIZE:
It is best not
to fertilize this month if the weather gets too hot, however, if
necessary, use a diluted water soluble fertilizer at 1/4 of the
manufacturer's recommended label strength. The following plant material
can be safely fertilized this month: Beech, Buttonwood, Crape Myrtle,
Fig (ficus), Ginkgo, Rhododendron, and Tropicals using a diluted
fertilizer solution as above.
WIRE:
Apple ‑ after
shoots become woody, Azalea, Birch, Boxwood, Buttonwood, Citrus,
Cotoneaster, Crabapple ‑ after new shoots become woody, Crape Myrtle ‑
after new growth has hardened, Elaeagnus, Elm, Fig (ficus), Gardenia ‑
as shoots become woody, Hackberry ‑ after shoots harden, Hawthorn, Holly
‑ new growth only ‑ old wood too brittle, Honey Locust ‑ late July,
Hornbeam ‑ after shoots harden, Jasmine ‑ winter, Maple ‑ All ‑ after
new growth has hardened, Mountain Laurel ‑ after shoots harden, Oak,
Podacarpus, Pomegranate, Privet, Pyracantha, Quince, Sasanqua,
Serviceberry ‑ after new growth becomes woody, Sweetgum ‑ after new
growth hardens, Tamarix, Tropicals, Zelkova. |